One recent morning, in the bustle of Florence’s ancient central market, Silvano Marchetto, a stout 76-year-old man with a mane of white hair, sat nursing a Negroni as he considered what he wanted to cook for dinner. The butchers and fishmongers who walked by threw respectful nods his way. The silver bracelets on his wrists jangled as he polished off his drink. Shuffling past meat displays and fruit stands as he went deeper into the market, he grunted reminiscences about his old life in New York City, back when he ran a celebrity haven in Greenwich Village, Da Silvano. Its operator, Elena Popa, gave him a look.

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Persons: Silvano, fishmongers, “ Lou Reed, ” “ Rihanna, ”, Anna Wintour’s, Mr, Marchetto, Elena Popa Locations: New York City, Greenwich Village